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Thread: Best bolt-ons vs. Worst bolt-ons

  1. #1
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    Best bolt-ons vs. Worst bolt-ons

    Quick list of the bolt-ons you should go with and which ones you should stay away from.

    Since the 5.0 is the same chassis, suspension mods will still apply. CAI's are different sizes obviously but the rankings are the same (5.0).

    CAI: Do
    1. JLT 89mm (mild bolt on) 110mm (head, cam, FI)
    2. CnL Racer 95mm
    3. Steeda with elbow(not factory elbow

    CAI: Don't
    1. Injen
    2. K&N FIPK
    3. BBK
    There is no point in running the "no tune required" intakes. They make little to no power and are usually the same price as the CAI's that actually net you 20+ hp.

    Shifter: Do
    1. MGW
    2. Steeda/Pro 5.0
    3. Hurst Billet

    Shifter: Don't
    1. Base Hurst (tends to break and extremely notchy)
    2. UPR Blue Thunder (same as hurst for notchiness)

    Underdrive Pulleys: There is really no do and don't on pulleys as long as they are SFI approved.
    1. Steeda
    2. Saleen
    3. BBK

    Drag Springs: Again no do and don't with drag springs. CJ's just edge out since they are $75 for all four corners
    1. FRPP CJ Drag
    2. BMR
    3. Eibach

    Longtubes: Do
    1. Kooks/Pypes (Pypes are an exact replica of the Kooks for half the price)
    2. MACs ( 2nd in power only to the Kooks for same price as Pypes)
    3. JBA, American Racing, Stainless Steel Works, BBK

    Longtubes: Don't
    1. Pacesetters (some fox and sn95 guys have no issues but for the s197 they are garbage)
    2. Boost Brothers (If you don't mind using a BFH they are great)
    3. Shorties (Stock manifolds flow extremely well making shorties worthless)

    Control Arms (Lower) By race, I MEAN race. They are solid bushings and extremely noisy.
    1. UPR Race (double adjustable and only $120 as well as lightest LCA on the market)
    2. BMR Race
    3. UMI and J&M

    Control Arms (Upper) As Upper Control Arms go, most S197 owners are happier with the BMI and the UMI offerings than the UPR
    1. BMR
    2. UMI
    3. UPR

    Panhard Bar: Any of these panhard bars work very well. Just listing them by popularity.
    1. BMR
    2. Steeda
    3. UPR, UMI

    Gears Remember that the gear you go with doesn't have to follow the ones I gave you. All setups are different and might work better with other ratios.
    N/A: 1. 4.56 2. 4.30 3. 4.10

    Turbo: 1. 3.31 2. 3.55 3. 3.73/3.27

    PD Blower: 1. 3.73 2. 4.10 3. 3.55

    Centrifugal: 1. 4.10 2. 3.73

    Sway bar delete/Radiator support delete
    1. Granatelli (Replica of the BMR and for a third of the price)
    2. BMR, UPR
    3. Steeda (bit heavier than the others but allows you to retain stock sway bar when not at track)

    Midpipe Power is pretty much the same with any midpipe if cats are deleted. What you want to look for in the midpipe is a good fitment and the sound that you like best. X-pipe will yield a raspier more exotic note while H-pipe and Prochamber will yield a more muscular and trumpette-esque sound. Midpipes will see differences in power when going FI. The X-pipe will yield more top end horsepower while the H-pipe will yield more low end torque.

    Good fitting Midpipes:
    Bassani, MAC Prochamber, Kooks, American Racing, JBA, Magnaflow, BBK, Borla, FRPP.

    Midpipes to stay away from: (fitment)
    Boost Brothers, Pypes (sometimes they do fit very well, however), Pacesetter.
    Last edited by killr3v; 08-01-2011 at 12:12 AM.

    06 GT. Built by me
    s197forum.com/forum
    12.61 @ 107.78 with a slipping clutch and one-wheel-peel.

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    Headers? LT's or short tube? Offroad H-pipe or X-pipe. Cat\ pipes H or X? Gears, 4.10, 3.73 or something else?

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    Rear control arms? Panhard bars? Sway bars?

    I'm new to these as you know since I broke mine 2 weeks in when the alt went out.

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    I'm working on it still as we speak. I'm going back and editing. I don't want to type it all up and get logged out lol

    06 GT. Built by me
    s197forum.com/forum
    12.61 @ 107.78 with a slipping clutch and one-wheel-peel.

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    Thanks for the info! Allison's car had the mgw shifter in it when we got it. She had to use both hands to go into 5th sometimes. I changed it for a Pro 5.0 and it's like butter in comparison. With the v2 and 4.10s on it, the shift light comes on in 4th right at the end of an unofficial quarter somewhere south of here. I talked to Chris about it, and I think we're going to go back to the 3.55s or maybe 3.73s since she drives it everyday.

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    You're welcome although this is for the s197 so some of these might be different for the Mach. Personally I love more gear lol

    06 GT. Built by me
    s197forum.com/forum
    12.61 @ 107.78 with a slipping clutch and one-wheel-peel.

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    Yeah, I guess I should pay more attention to what forum it's under. I just looked under new posts. Everything you have listed is high quality stuff, that's for sure.

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    Quote Originally Posted by killr3v View Post
    Quick list of the bolt-ons you should go with and which ones you should stay away from.

    Underdrive Pulleys: There is really no do and don't on pulleys as long as they are SFI approved.
    1. Steeda
    2. Saleen
    3. BBK
    A few years ago Cameron brought home an underdrive pulley for his car (4.6, 2000 GT) that I would not let him install on the car until the car was out from under my care. This underdrive pulley was a piggy back type pulley that I didn't think should be on the car. He bought another kind that replaced the entire harmonic balancer. I know this is just my opinion but I really didn't like the way the other system looked. Just my opinion/two cents.

  9. #9
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    Nice write up Hector!

    plan of action.

  10. #10
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    Question mark I noticed...Pypes being same as Kooks. Design is very similar, but they're not the same quality product. I had a lengthy discussion w/ a sponsor recently and he cleared up some of the myths behind appearance vs function. While Kooks and a few others have addtl cost based on reputation/name, there are often also higher quality controls, better stainless steel, different collectors, internals, and so on. Similar situation w/ BBK vs Amer Racing and so on.

    ...good post though. WIll be better and better as it shapes up and more experiences are added. Thanks Hector!
    Last edited by ultamax; 08-03-2011 at 03:16 PM.
    '11 ingot silver GT
    '07 alloy gray S281 (sold)
    '05 screaming yellow GT (sold)

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