1993 Electric Red Coupe

[TxFireman1972]

Been feeling a little slop in the steering column. Tightened up all the mounting bolts under the dash, didn't seem to change much. So I pulled the steering wheel and replaced the bearing in the end of the column. LMR had the bearing in stock. Nice and tight

[Simplytodd]

Hey Billy when you say slop was it noticble when the key was out and the wheel was in the locked position? Or when you go to turn the wheel was there a small amount of movement in the wheel before you start to get tension in the wheel and start to move the direction you steered?

[TxFireman1972]

Hey Billy when you say slop was it noticble when the key was out and the wheel was in the locked position? Or when you go to turn the wheel was there a small amount of movement in the wheel before you start to get tension in the wheel and start to move the direction you steered?

Up/down slop because the bearing wasn't tight. Not side to side. That is nice and tight with the Maximum Motorsports steering shaft, all new tie rods, and Maximum Motorsports rack mount bushings on the 2004 steering rack.

[Simplytodd]

I have the same setup but with a flaming river manual rack. For some reason my wheel has some play in it. It happens both with the wheel in the locked position and while driving. Basically you can turn the wheel a 1/2" inch or so either direction before you get resistance from the rack or the steering wheel lock. Thought maybe this might be my problem.

[TxFireman1972]

Even before I replaced the bearing, if the steering wheel was "locked" with the key out it was locked solid, no movement. Once I unlocked it with the key I could move the column up and down slightly. It's easy to change and the bearing is only $20. It's worth a try.

[MBR]

what is the difference in the 2004 rack? I know you have to use the fox tie rods but as far as the rack itself is it a lot tighter? more responsive?

[TxFireman1972]

what is the difference in the 2004 rack? I know you have to use the fox tie rods but as far as the rack itself is it a lot tighter? more responsive?

Also requires a hybrid steering shaft.

Here is some good info on the SN95 rack swap

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/te...ing_shaft.aspx

[TxFireman1972]

Finally got around to taking it in to have my subframe connectors welded in. I bought the Maximum Motorsports full length ones. I also bought the plates that Wolfe makes that you weld on the bottom of the lower torque boxes that box them in solid. Had them all welded up and then painted them satin black.





Front end of SFC





Middle





Seat Bracket





Rear of SFC and plate that boxes in the torque box





I had already installed Wild Rides torque box reinforcements a while back. Went ahead and had him weld them up





And then painted them







Made a big difference. Really stiffened the car up. Its usually one of the first things I do when I get a new Mustang. Just kept getting put off this time for some reason.

[silver408coupe]

I have the same setup but with a flaming river manual rack. For some reason my wheel has some play in it. It happens both with the wheel in the locked position and while driving. Basically you can turn the wheel a 1/2" inch or so either direction before you get resistance from the rack or the steering wheel lock. Thought maybe this might be my problem.

Todd have you tried tightening the two star pattern bolts underneath the steering column trim, behind the steering wheel? That's a common area where th steering wheel gets loose. BTW, did you move?

[TxFireman1972]

Time to get some AC in the car before summer kicks in full blast. I wont use all of this, but I got a good deal on everything, and it came off of a running Camaro SS. So I scooped it all up.





Also grabbed a dryer that has the line pointing towards the front of the car instead of running across the firewall towards the drivers side like the stock one did.