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Thread: Frustrated and need help. A/C connection won't disconnect on SN95

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    Frustrated and need help. A/C connection won't disconnect on SN95

    I am trying to change out the heater core and a/c evap on my SN95 (199 Mustang. I have literally wasted 2 sets of a/c tools and the connection won't give it up.
    Can I get someone to help me with this? I'm in old KATY?

    2013 Mustang GT
    - Flowmaster Pro Series.
    - More to come soon.....

    1998 Mustang GT - SOLD!
    2011 Mustang GT/CS - SOLD!

  2. #2
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    Hit up @jwilliy, He's in old Katy..

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    Well finally got it after the full weekend and 2 nights after work. I broke 3 different tools trying to get this a/c line off and still nothing. I found a youtube video of a guy using a clamp spring cut to fit and it did the trick. Quick disconnect my arse. I finally got the black box out and now trying to get the a/c evap out of the box. Ford didn't make this easy. I'm just hoping all this goes back together and WORKS? We'll see?

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    Ok..New problem. I got the evaporator assembly out. Now how do I get the evaporator out. The internet is full of heater core removal bit NOTHING on the a/c evaporator removal. It looks like I might have to use a heat gun and melt the glue and peel the entire assembly apart?
    Any ideas?

  7. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheWizard View Post
    Ok..New problem. I got the evaporator assembly out. Now how do I get the evaporator out. The internet is full of heater core removal bit NOTHING on the a/c evaporator removal. It looks like I might have to use a heat gun and melt the glue and peel the entire assembly apart?
    Any ideas?
    It's been years since I did one, but I remember cutting the box to access the evaporator core & sealing it back up after replacing the evap. I installed screws to hold it together.

    Did a little search and found the info below on Stangnet. I think I personally used RTV or maybe 3M window weld to seal the box, but their idea to use ribbon sealer is a good one.


    "The heater core can be removed without cutting, the evaporator takes some work. I've done that job a few times, and getting the AC box out alone is PITA. First of all, you don't have to remove the whole dash to get it out like the manual says. There are two bolts that hold it to the top on brackets, and one screw that holds it to the firewall on the bottom. You have to drop the steering wheel column, and remove all the bolts that hold the dash on. I can't remember if there are 6 or 8. With the center console removed, and the passenger seat out, you should be able to get enough leverage on the passenger side of the dash to slip the HVAC box out the bottom. The heater core sits horizontal on top. Go ahead and remove that, this is also a good time to change it since they aren't that expensive. The evaporator core sits vertical just below the heater core. There is a large seem that holds the HVAC box together right beside the evap core. Cut along this seem. With the heater core out, you should be able to see where the evap core is. The best tool to use to cut the box apart is a cut off wheel on a dremel. Then you should be able to cut around the evap core. I have found that the best stuff to put the HVAC box back together is ribbon sealer (the stuff you put compound glass windows back in with). It comes in a roll for like $9 at the auto parts store. Unfortunately it's not cheap, but it works really well with the minimum amount of mess. It also works good for reinstalling the heater core. You will have to be a little inventive putting the HVAC box back together. You are just going to have to use some screws and zip ties in a inventive fashion. This job should take you about a day. Sorry no pics, good luck."
    Tony S.
    W-222
    1990 Mustang GT 5.0L 5spd Grocery Getter

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    I ended up taking it to Rick (SSPTANGBANGER) Just waiting for the finished product.
    Thanks so much for your help Rick.

    2013 Mustang GT
    - Flowmaster Pro Series.
    - More to come soon.....

    1998 Mustang GT - SOLD!
    2011 Mustang GT/CS - SOLD!

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